my 90 accord was only able to shift manually, it is and automatic. it was in limp mode i believe... only worked when I put it in second gear, then bounce it to fourth, or third..

I replaced the TCM... with a beauty i got out of a 90 accord, with 98k, and just perfect everything on it.. all resistors were mint.. i pulled 12 before I found this one lol... i also got fender and 4 rims, and ill be back to get the seats, but anyway..

so I now have 1st gear, and then it feels like it goes from 1st to 3rd, or 4th... it does not get into second, unless I put it there... but I dont want to shift it like that... d3, then 2, then back to d3... gay.. just wanna see if i can get it to work right..

2 questions.. The cord that goes from throttle to front near battery, then under the car to I assume the transmission.."was told it called a downshift cable" does it need adjusted??

and when cruising at 60 mph, im runnin about 3k rpm.. and 70mph about 3700rpm... is that normal for fourth gear or third??

Thanks guys!

 

You can adjust that cable.

You have several threads covering a bunch of different issues.

Did this car have the shifting problem the whole time, or is this something new?

 

What does the cable do? I don't know.. I can't seem to tighten it anymore.. but its loose still...

Yes PA, I've had the shifting issue the entire time I have had the car..4 maybe 5 weeks now...

And yes PA, I have multiple issues.. that's why I'm here... and multiple threads for multiple problems... rather than drag 10 topics in one 70 page long thread...

If you have read them, you will see yall have helped me fix all other issues, that's why were not in those threads still..

Have I done something wrong?

 

No, actually my preference is separate threads for separate problems so it doesn't get too confusing. I don't think there's a "RULE" about that, but sometimes one problem will cause another and make it more complicated.

That cable from throttle down to transmission is how the trans "knows" how you're pressing the accelerator. Based on that cable it'll either hold a gear up to higher RPM, or maybe even trigger a downshift.

 

I don't mind multiple threads for each specific problem.

I asked if the shifting problem occurred after a repair, because a previous repair could have caused a new problem.

Anyway, I would still start by getting TCU codes by counting the LED flashes from the window of the TCU.

 

Cant count codes, there is NO window on this tcu. OLD tcu would blink once.. then once again..

NO cel, or codes when wires bridged.

I adjusted the throttle cable slightly... and adjusted the shift cable as per haynes manual. I do have more throttle response, and she goes into next gear very smooth now from first...

Runs thru first great then bumps like it wants to hit second, but goes straigt to either 3rd or 4th... I cant tell if it shifts from 3rd to 4th at all... after first gear it stays in the next gear the rest of the time... so im thinking its first to third, and I have no 4th.

Its pushing 4k rpm when im doing 85mph, which makes me think its thrid gear.

Shift solenoid... issues? I think they are the little metal ugly lookin round cylinder bump things on side of tranny ive been staring at while repairing the sensors and distributor... do these have problems? Should I look into that or try something else first?

Second gear works and runs great... when I put it in 2. Thinking... Yalls thoughts?

 

I remember that you have a MT gauge cluster, so you can't count the S light (or D4 light) flashes for TCU codes. I would suggest that you pick up a 90 AT cluster, so you can count the flashes to get TCU codes. You can swap the speedometer over to keep the proper mileage.

If you go by the one flash on the old TCU, then the problem is with the lockup solenoid, code 1. Code 10 would be for the engine coolant temp sensor, which should cause the check engine light to flash. I am not great with automatic transmissions, so I don't know if a bad lockup solenoid would cause your shifting problem.

 

I don't have a pin-out for the TCU, but if you don't want to get an AT cluster, you could find a wiring drawing & see which pin switches the S or D4 lamp. Generally those lamps are powered all the time & the TCU switches the ground leg of the circuit.

 

Wow.. I totally did not think about the MT cluster, that makes sense as to why I don't have any lights or a place for the lights to be.. thanks
I did find a perfect one in the scrapyard reading 124k so I think ill grab that...

I was doing some research last night.. and it explained problems with the solenoids causing the same issues I am having. It also said the lockup solenoids is the one to replace... but first clean, grease and get new gasket and reinstall, being as they are 250 new I'm gonna attempt to clean it while at lunch today, and see what I get.. I don't wanna junkyard this because I'm not sure it will work... but I can always pay for one, and pocket 3 lol...

what is the difference between the 2 solenoids? one is a lockup, and it does what exactly? and the other is a "?" and it does what? is the lockup solenoid the one closest to the top as I open hood.. easiest to get to...?

thanks guys

 

There's shift-solenoids & lock-up solenoids. Check an online site that has parts pictures for which is which (I'm a 3-pedal guy). You could use a multi-meter to check if they're open-circuit, in which case you can't fix em by cleaning.