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Using a floor jack on a 2013 Honda accord

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  #11  
Old 07-13-2014, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by pspens
Well, I rotated my tires and while I had the front right tire removed, checked under the car as best I could. I could see no cross-member! Everything in the middle looks like important stuff, like tran., engine, etc. I'm wondering if there is a point nearer the front-middle of the vehicle that would serve? It's my first look underneath a Honda, so if anyone would like to chime-in, that would be appreciated. The reason I want to use a floor jack is to change my oil. I'm used to doing this job myself. I have a complimentary oil change from the dealership that I will be using, but I suspect they're not gonna let me watch while they do the job. If they would, I could ask the mechanic.


I use Rhino ramps to get underneath my car for oil changes. Simple and IMO safer. As far as knowing how to do it, there are several video's that show how do perform. Pull the drain plug, let it drain down, when it's down to drips, reinstall the plug and loosen the filter when it begins to drain from the filter let it drain a few seconds and then remove the old filter. be sure to keep the filter as upright as possible when removing it to reduce the amount of oil dripping out. Once the filter is removed, put a little of the drain oil on the "O" ring, of the new filter, with your finger. and screw the filter back on, hand tight is good. I have some super sticky gloves that I use to remove/replace the oil filter. Now just fill. Before you pull the drain plug, remove the fill cap and dipstick.
 

Last edited by Frugalhondaguy; 07-13-2014 at 11:26 AM.
  #12  
Old 07-13-2014, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by JimBlake
The dealer will use a lift that lifts the whole car by the 4 points under the rocker panels (where the tire-changing jack fits).

I don't have a 2013, but it's very traditional for Hondas to have a lifting point under the center of the radiator support frame. There's usually a big arrow in the plastic splash shield pointing at a flattened spot on the metal frame roughly under the center of the radiator.

For oil changes, I normally drive onto some kind of low block. I have an extension piece that goes with my ramps, but if I didn't have that I'd make something from 2x8 or 2x10 lumber.
Thanks. I'll try to get under there and look for that.
 
  #13  
Old 07-13-2014, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Frugalhondaguy
I use Rhino ramps to get underneath my car for oil changes. Simple and IMO safer.
Not familiar with what these are... guess it's time for Google. I had a couple of ramps that I tried to use back in the '80s but I found it wasn't that easy to drive up on them.
 
  #14  
Old 07-13-2014, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by pspens
Not familiar with what these are... guess it's time for Google. I had a couple of ramps that I tried to use back in the '80s but I found it wasn't that easy to drive up on them.
I use a couple of 2x6 strips about 24" length to "bridge" from ground to each ramp. This effectively reduces the ramp steepness and prevents the bumper from contacting ramp during up/down transit.

good luck
 
  #15  
Old 07-13-2014, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by TexasHonda
I use a couple of 2x6 strips about 24" length to "bridge" from ground to each ramp. This effectively reduces the ramp steepness and prevents the bumper from contacting ramp during up/down transit.

good luck
Wouldn't they (the wooden strips) tend to pop up when you first drive onto them? I seem to remember having a tough time judging when to stop after I got on top of the ramps. I don't have anyone to help look at where I am as I'm doing this. It does sound like it would be easier once the car is up on them... no jack to maneuver around!
 
  #16  
Old 07-13-2014, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by pspens
Wouldn't they (the wooden strips) tend to pop up when you first drive onto them? I seem to remember having a tough time judging when to stop after I got on top of the ramps. I don't have anyone to help look at where I am as I'm doing this. It does sound like it would be easier once the car is up on them... no jack to maneuver around!




These are the Rhino ramps: Welcome to RhinoRamps®

I have the 12k set. They work great and there is a stop in the front of them. If you want to do the next oil change without using a wrench buy this http://www.qwikvalve.com/?utm_source...=search-fumoto


I have them on all my cars and my daughters car. Just open the valve and your good to go. They are spring loaded locked in the closed position.
 

Last edited by Frugalhondaguy; 07-13-2014 at 03:53 PM.
  #17  
Old 07-13-2014, 04:51 PM
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The 2x6 strips stay put during initial contact and ramp transit. As wheel leaves strip behind going up the ramp, wheel will forcefully push the strip rearwards and occasionally I've driven the rear wheel over them trapping the strip. A spare strip is handy for this eventuality. You could jack up wheel to free trapped strip.

You can also make a hook to link the strip to the ramp to prevent this problem. I've never had problems enough to make me do this.

I've managed to negotiate ramps solo on numerous occasions, however it is more comfortable to have someone watching.

good luck
 
  #18  
Old 07-14-2014, 09:52 AM
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Thanks for all who replied. I have located the jack point under the radiator mentioned by JimBlake. This should be a piece of cake. I plan to jack it up high enough to use jackstands on the two front tire-changing jackpoints. Depending on clearance I may remove the floor jack, then, although in the past I've left it in place.

Oh, btw, at the workshop, they techs warned about not using Honda oil filters, citing a disaster from a customer who used some cheap filter. My guess is that Fram filters are just as good. Agree? I plan to use Mobil 1 synthetic when I do the change.
 
  #19  
Old 07-14-2014, 02:54 PM
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I've used hundreds of Fram filters over many years, never had a problem. But then I hear stories about cheap internal construction, so I switched to Purolator Pure-One filters which are supposed to be a lot better.

I've wanted to, but so far been too busy/lazy to cut open a used filter for a good look at how they're made.

If the dealer says anything, remind them that Honeywell/Fram makes their Honda-labeled filter for them. And see whether they stock the Honda oil filters that are actually made by Filtech.
 
  #20  
Old 07-14-2014, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by JimBlake
I've used hundreds of Fram filters over many years, never had a problem. But then I hear stories about cheap internal construction, so I switched to Purolator Pure-One filters which are supposed to be a lot better.

I've wanted to, but so far been too busy/lazy to cut open a used filter for a good look at how they're made.

If the dealer says anything, remind them that Honeywell/Fram makes their Honda-labeled filter for them. And see whether they stock the Honda oil filters that are actually made by Filtech.
Never heard of Filtech. Do they make the Purolators? I had never heard this about Purolator filters, but I don't talk to many mechanics. I can't say that I've noticed the brand at Walmart, but I'll start to keep an eye peeled for them.

I found someone who tried to compare many different oil filters on the web (but this was for a specific truck):

http://www.gmtruckcentral.com/articl...lterstudy.html

It has ranked the Fram Extended guard filter as the best.
 

Last edited by pspens; 07-14-2014 at 03:56 PM.


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