Water Pump
#1
Water Pump
I have a 1991 4 Cylinder Honda accord and my water pump is leaking. Unfortunately the previous owner replaced the timing belt about 20,0000 miles ago. With this car I have to remove the timing belt then the water pump. I haven't been working on cars not too much and am curious either how difficult it would be? or if a shop would just replace the water pump? if so any idea on price?
#3
They probably didn't replace the tensioners or the shaft seals either.
Generally, people who write "have not worked on cars much" should probably not do their own t-belts. Maybe you have a friend who has done one and can help?
In any case, do the whole job: new belts, pump, shaft seals, tensioners, balance shaft seal retainer.
Roy
Generally, people who write "have not worked on cars much" should probably not do their own t-belts. Maybe you have a friend who has done one and can help?
In any case, do the whole job: new belts, pump, shaft seals, tensioners, balance shaft seal retainer.
Roy
#4
They probably didn't replace the tensioners or the shaft seals either.
Generally, people who write "have not worked on cars much" should probably not do their own t-belts. Maybe you have a friend who has done one and can help?
In any case, do the whole job: new belts, pump, shaft seals, tensioners, balance shaft seal retainer.
Roy
Generally, people who write "have not worked on cars much" should probably not do their own t-belts. Maybe you have a friend who has done one and can help?
In any case, do the whole job: new belts, pump, shaft seals, tensioners, balance shaft seal retainer.
Roy
Was the timing belt changed 20,000 or 200,000 miles ago?
Here is a great link to give you an idea:
honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1908944
#5
Stan,
Since you have expressed some trepidation about performing this job yourself, then I highly recommend just taking your car to a reputable independent Honda garage. You wouldn't want to embark on the repair job and inadvertently mess something up halfway through the process.
With that disclaimer issued, perhaps you can peruse through the procedure and decide for yourself as to whether or not the water pump job is within your capabilities Here is a quick walk-through for replacing the water pump on a '91 Accord 4 cylinder:
Note: This operation requires removal of the timing belt. Do not attempt to replace the water pump if you are not familiar with timing belt procedures.
1) Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2) Turn the engine to align the timing marks and set cylinder No. 1 to TDC on the compression stroke. Once in this position, the engine must NOT be turned or disturbed.
3) Drain the engine coolant. Use a clean container and cap it when full. Wipe up spillage immediately.
4) Remove the timing belt. This step in of itself is pretty intensive so unless you possess at least intermediate mechanical skills then I advise against undertaking the job yourself.
5) Remove the bolts holding the water pump; pay attention to the locations of any bigger or longer bolts.
6) Remove the water pump and the O-ring.
-Installation-
1) Replace the O-ring and install the water pump. Make certain the O-ring does not deform or come out of place. Tighten the mounting bolts to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm).
2) Install the timing belt.
3) Refill the engine coolant.
4) Connect the negative battery cable.
5) Start the engine, allowing it to idle. Check the work area carefully for any sign of fluid leakage or any indication of the belt rubbing or slapping the covers.
6) Bleed the cooling system.
7) Shut the engine off. Reinstall the splash shield.
Since you have expressed some trepidation about performing this job yourself, then I highly recommend just taking your car to a reputable independent Honda garage. You wouldn't want to embark on the repair job and inadvertently mess something up halfway through the process.
With that disclaimer issued, perhaps you can peruse through the procedure and decide for yourself as to whether or not the water pump job is within your capabilities Here is a quick walk-through for replacing the water pump on a '91 Accord 4 cylinder:
Note: This operation requires removal of the timing belt. Do not attempt to replace the water pump if you are not familiar with timing belt procedures.
1) Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2) Turn the engine to align the timing marks and set cylinder No. 1 to TDC on the compression stroke. Once in this position, the engine must NOT be turned or disturbed.
3) Drain the engine coolant. Use a clean container and cap it when full. Wipe up spillage immediately.
4) Remove the timing belt. This step in of itself is pretty intensive so unless you possess at least intermediate mechanical skills then I advise against undertaking the job yourself.
5) Remove the bolts holding the water pump; pay attention to the locations of any bigger or longer bolts.
6) Remove the water pump and the O-ring.
-Installation-
1) Replace the O-ring and install the water pump. Make certain the O-ring does not deform or come out of place. Tighten the mounting bolts to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm).
2) Install the timing belt.
3) Refill the engine coolant.
4) Connect the negative battery cable.
5) Start the engine, allowing it to idle. Check the work area carefully for any sign of fluid leakage or any indication of the belt rubbing or slapping the covers.
6) Bleed the cooling system.
7) Shut the engine off. Reinstall the splash shield.
Last edited by redbull-1; 07-20-2012 at 12:08 PM. Reason: removed live selling links
#6
1991 Accord Overheating
I have a 4 cylinder accord that recently started getting hot at random times. Some days it would work fine and the next it tells me it almost on H. Temperature hasn't changed (weather wise). Any help is appreciated
I don't know if this has to do with my heater not working as well.
I have already
-Bled the radiator
-New Coolant
-Replaced thermostat
-Replace Thermostat Housing O-Ring
I don't know if this has to do with my heater not working as well.
I have already
-Bled the radiator
-New Coolant
-Replaced thermostat
-Replace Thermostat Housing O-Ring
#8
Sorry I just checked and my left tire was low causing the thermostat housing coolant to go to drivers side and appear to be the culprit but now I cleaned everything and no more leaks but it still gets hot
#9
Huh?
So you have no leaks now? Coolant is full and no trapped air. You say the heater does not work, is the heater control valve opening? Check to be sure the cable to the vale is moving as you turn the ****/lever.
If so I still suggest bleeding the coolant, if you had coolant leaking at some point-some air got in there....Not sure how or why it stopped leaking.
So you have no leaks now? Coolant is full and no trapped air. You say the heater does not work, is the heater control valve opening? Check to be sure the cable to the vale is moving as you turn the ****/lever.
If so I still suggest bleeding the coolant, if you had coolant leaking at some point-some air got in there....Not sure how or why it stopped leaking.