water pump working?
#11
Sry, It was the balancer shaft gearbox. I have been too busy to work on it much . i have time and will prolly have time to finish it up today. I will try to post a pic of the old pump if it hasnt made it to the trash yet.
#13
Don't feel stupid. The balancer shaft shaft gearbox is a big "official" looking thing, looking like it could be the water pump. A $4.00 mistake, and it won't hurt that the O-ring was replaced either.
#14
I replied the other day about the oil pump and yes it was the balancer pully that i pulled off by mistake. i dont know why my post idnt show up. anyway I got everything back together and pthe pump is working and the heater works.
But now I am setting the timing and I cant turn thr distributer enough to get to where I need to be. I guess I am a tooth off on my belt or something. is it possible that I can move all the plug wires on the cap over one position and turn the distributer back the other way and I will be able to get the further adjustment that I need?
But now I am setting the timing and I cant turn thr distributer enough to get to where I need to be. I guess I am a tooth off on my belt or something. is it possible that I can move all the plug wires on the cap over one position and turn the distributer back the other way and I will be able to get the further adjustment that I need?
#15
You should adjust the crankshaft position to TDC and check the camshaft alignment w/ the upper timing belt cover removed. Camshaft sprocket mark at 9:00 o'clock position should align w/ back of timing belt cover.
If you're off on camshaft alignment, it should be possible to fix w/o removing timing belt.
1) Loosen camshaft sprocket retaining bolt. An air impact wrench or mechanical means of holding the camshaft fixed while loosening is necessary. Make sure crankshaft remains at TDC or reposition as necessary.
2) Loosen belt tension adjusting nut and pull belt slack upwards on rear side of sprocket. You will need to fix the timing belt to prevent slackening; vise grip on belt or jim clip to hold tension on lower part of belt (front and rear) and loosen belt over the camshaft sprocket.
3) Remove camshaft sprocket retaining bolt, and remove camshaft sprocket.
4) Align camshaft sprocket timing mark to TDC position relative to rear side timing cover.
5) Reinstall camshaft sprocket to camshaft and tighten retaining nut.
6) Retension timing belt on camshaft sprocket and check TDC alignments. Rotate crankshaft 3-5 revs and recheck alignment.
good luck
If you're off on camshaft alignment, it should be possible to fix w/o removing timing belt.
1) Loosen camshaft sprocket retaining bolt. An air impact wrench or mechanical means of holding the camshaft fixed while loosening is necessary. Make sure crankshaft remains at TDC or reposition as necessary.
2) Loosen belt tension adjusting nut and pull belt slack upwards on rear side of sprocket. You will need to fix the timing belt to prevent slackening; vise grip on belt or jim clip to hold tension on lower part of belt (front and rear) and loosen belt over the camshaft sprocket.
3) Remove camshaft sprocket retaining bolt, and remove camshaft sprocket.
4) Align camshaft sprocket timing mark to TDC position relative to rear side timing cover.
5) Reinstall camshaft sprocket to camshaft and tighten retaining nut.
6) Retension timing belt on camshaft sprocket and check TDC alignments. Rotate crankshaft 3-5 revs and recheck alignment.
good luck
#16
Texas Honda, I am not following you. maybe dont undefrstand. But if I remove the cam sprocket and line up the marks,then the valves will not be in the correct position. why wouldnt i just put the crank at tdc. loosed tne tensioner pull thebelt off of the cam pulley, and then move the cam pully over 1 tooth or however much it takes and then put the belt back on.
The car is running but the distributer will not turn enough to get the timing set to where I need it. I just need to be able to turn the dist a little more. my last post was way wrong. what I shoould haveasked is if pull the distributer and moving the distributer shaft 1 tooth would give me the adjustment that I need.
The car is running but the distributer will not turn enough to get the timing set to where I need it. I just need to be able to turn the dist a little more. my last post was way wrong. what I shoould haveasked is if pull the distributer and moving the distributer shaft 1 tooth would give me the adjustment that I need.
#17
Not being able to adjust ignition timing to spec suggests the camshaft/crankshaft alignment is off. Are you trying to adjust to an "off-spec" timing?
The distributor shaft is not adjustable. A key on distributor shaft must engage crankshaft and fits correctly in only one position.
good luck
The distributor shaft is not adjustable. A key on distributor shaft must engage crankshaft and fits correctly in only one position.
good luck
#20
Tex, Yea I basically had to take the belt off and do it again. I think I can do It in about an hour and a half now. Lol! Got it fired up and Its running alot better than it was before I moved the belt, but It is a rough idle. puilled each plug wire one at a time and I have a dead cyl. Did a compression check. 60lbs! No water in the oil, no oil in the water. Is that telling me its a burnt valve? I only need to drive this car for 2 more months. If I knew I could fix it with a 60 dokkar head gasklet I would. but If I get the head off and it is a burnt valve I am dead in the water... I appreciate all your wisdome the last couple days.