weird 98 Accord LX stalling problem
#1
weird 98 Accord LX stalling problem
Hi folks —
I've got a 98 Accord LX, 2.3 liter, 4-cylinder. It randomly stalls while driving. The engine just cuts off, and the door locks cycle like I'd turned the key to the off position.
I've read about Honda's ignition switch recall, but we actually had the ignition switch replaced a couple years ago (due to a theft attempt), and I can't cause the problem by jiggling the key or anything like that.
I've replaced the distributor, the battery cables (the battery is fairly new), the main relay. On a hunch that it might be the fuel system, I replaced the fuel pump (why no accessible fuel filter in this car?). I've recently been wrestling with an EGR P0401 code, for which I replaced the EGR valve and cleaned the EGR port. While I had the intake manifold open, I cleaned everything else as well.
Still stalls.
I'm out of ideas. There are probably cheaper ways to deal with all the above (i.e. testing), but it's got a lot of miles and I figured swapping parts wouldn't hurt. But it isn't doing any good either. And the cost is starting to stack up.
One other thing: the stalling condition is modal. That is to say, the car will suddenly (absolutely no warning) jump into a sort of won't-operate mode. It dies, and you can't get it restarted. The engine turns over and seems to catch, but as soon as you let go of the key, it dies again. This goes on for 30 seconds or so, and boom, just as abruptly it reverts to normal. It starts fine and runs fine.
Any notion what's going on here?
I've got a 98 Accord LX, 2.3 liter, 4-cylinder. It randomly stalls while driving. The engine just cuts off, and the door locks cycle like I'd turned the key to the off position.
I've read about Honda's ignition switch recall, but we actually had the ignition switch replaced a couple years ago (due to a theft attempt), and I can't cause the problem by jiggling the key or anything like that.
I've replaced the distributor, the battery cables (the battery is fairly new), the main relay. On a hunch that it might be the fuel system, I replaced the fuel pump (why no accessible fuel filter in this car?). I've recently been wrestling with an EGR P0401 code, for which I replaced the EGR valve and cleaned the EGR port. While I had the intake manifold open, I cleaned everything else as well.
Still stalls.
I'm out of ideas. There are probably cheaper ways to deal with all the above (i.e. testing), but it's got a lot of miles and I figured swapping parts wouldn't hurt. But it isn't doing any good either. And the cost is starting to stack up.
One other thing: the stalling condition is modal. That is to say, the car will suddenly (absolutely no warning) jump into a sort of won't-operate mode. It dies, and you can't get it restarted. The engine turns over and seems to catch, but as soon as you let go of the key, it dies again. This goes on for 30 seconds or so, and boom, just as abruptly it reverts to normal. It starts fine and runs fine.
Any notion what's going on here?
#2
You may have heard the saying "If it looks like a duck, walks like a duck, and quacks,..it must be a duck".
You have a duck, or more precisely a faulty ignition switch. Sugggest removing steering wheel cover and replacing. You can confirm by observing that ignition lights go off when engine stops. This indicates that switch has been effectively killed, even though key position has not moved.
I think you'll see that wiggingly the key has little coupling of movement to the switch assy unless you actually turn the key.
I suspect these keyswitch assys wear out because they carry too much current w/ arcing causing overheating and problems.
good luck
You have a duck, or more precisely a faulty ignition switch. Sugggest removing steering wheel cover and replacing. You can confirm by observing that ignition lights go off when engine stops. This indicates that switch has been effectively killed, even though key position has not moved.
I think you'll see that wiggingly the key has little coupling of movement to the switch assy unless you actually turn the key.
I suspect these keyswitch assys wear out because they carry too much current w/ arcing causing overheating and problems.
good luck
#5
good luck
#7
This happened to my 98 accord lx when i was messing with the idle. I had set the idle TOO LOW, and it would die on me while driving. The brakes wouldnt work while it would die in motion then it would just restart itself while rolling a few seconds after. Make sure your idle screw is not screwed in all the way.
By the way, have you messed with the throttle body in the past?
By the way, have you messed with the throttle body in the past?
#8
It's definitely not an idle problem. It often dies on the interstate at 70+ mph, and it dies suddenly, like someone just flipped a switch.
Speaking of which, I replaced the ignition switch this weekend. The old one had burn marks all over it, and one of the solder joints was all brown with melted insulation all around it. Looked about as reliable as a tin butcher knife.
I figure if it hasn't died in a week, then this is definitely the problem.
Speaking of which, I replaced the ignition switch this weekend. The old one had burn marks all over it, and one of the solder joints was all brown with melted insulation all around it. Looked about as reliable as a tin butcher knife.
I figure if it hasn't died in a week, then this is definitely the problem.