You don't know that you have a parasitic draw. You've never measured current drain or attempted to determine which circuit is pulling amps. Until you do that, you might as well throw darts at the wiring.

good luck

 

Yeah, if you leave the battery disconnected and it drains all by itself, then you're done - bad battery. Just don't come to that conclusion based on the battery disconnected for only 1-hour.

 

I do have an amp but it's been disconnected for some time now. I also have an alarm, but I've removed the fuse from that as well and my battery will still drain. So those two things have been ruled out.

 

As JimBlake suggested it was the surface-charge of the battery draining off. I just checked the voltage and it was holding at 10.11v since last night after I jumped it and let the alternator charge it for about ~30 minutes or so. I reconnected the battery negative cable and the voltage immediately dropped to ~2.36v.

I did try another current draw test yesterday and it read 0.0. I've done this before which led me to replace my ignition switch and another relay. So I know I'm doing the amp draw test correctly.

 

A drop to 2.36v w/ a parasitic load means the battery is still nearly dead. Voltage should be 11-12V even w/ 5-10 amps of load.

Have you tried pulling fuses and watching amp drain to see when drain stops?

good luck

 

Wait, you left the battery disconnected overnight & it was 10.11 volts; then as soon as you connected it the voltage went down to less than 3v?

1) Right after charging it the night before, it was good at 12.xx volts?
2) In the morning when you re-connected it, where did you measure 2.3v? At the actual battery posts?

I think you should take the battery & have it tested under load.

 

Yes the night before it was roughly 12.xx volts and trickling down slowly. this morning it was holding steady at 10.11 volts. I attributed the loss in volts to the surface charge wearing down. I disconnected the battery last night and reconnected it this morning and measured the voltage across the posts on the battery. So with no cables connected voltage was 10.11 volts and with cables on it dropped to ~2.3x volts.

And need I remind everyone I get roughly ~.05 on the 5u amp scale during drain test. Gonna get a new ammeter tomorrow to verify my multi is still functioning properly.

 

I think if the battery had been drained by some load, the voltage would have dropped more.

Having a voltage of 10v then immediately dropping to 3v without hardly any load, sounds like that battery has developed large internal resistance.

Multi-meters typically have small-ish fuses in their amp circuits. If you've blown that fuse, then the small reading might just be zero-drift.

 

Ok, so my fuse in my multi meter was done for. Got it fixed and now I have a drain of 5.5 milliamps.

Fuse 39 has a draw of about 2.3 milliamps (EMC, Stereo, Clock, TCM). Found out that my D4 light being on at startup is an indication of some kind of failure in the SRS system(?). SRS light remains lit at all times when car is on. Just noticed the D4 light being on recently although amp draw as been occuring for about 2 years now.

http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/yo...1123_atdtc.pdf

Can I get some help on what to do with this please.

Also, I still have about 3 milliamp draw from some unknown source. All other fused circuits didn't result any other draw.

Thanks for all the help and responses thus far.

 

I don't see where the D4 lamp indicates anything about the SRS system? But if your SRS lamp stays lit, that indicates a problem with SRS.

When you jumper the service-check connector, what code does the D4 lamp flash out?