That drain is normal. It would take months if not a year to drain a fully charged battery with 6 mils. Sounds like you have a bad battery.

 

Maybe I'm not reading my meter correctly, but it's reading about 5.5ma on the 20ma scale. I would assume I am correct in stating I have a 5.5ma drain. Even if this is a "normal" reading I'm still getting a draw from fuse 39 indicating a problem in the circuit, which still isn't good. Would also like to point out that it starts at about 15ma and drops down progressively slower until it reaches about 5.5ma.

So I checked the service-check connector and got 5 long flashes followed by 1 short flash from the SRS light. It repeated it 3 times. Tried to search for code 51 with no luck. I'm sure I'm counting it correctly too!

Update: The drain is now down to 3.2ma today for some reason. Didn't change anything except I removed all of the fuses and reseated them all. Also, I would like to point out my CEL is not on.

Another Update!: So in the interim I decided to reset my SRS light since it's been on for some time now. Got that bug fixed. Jumpered the SCS connector and get the SRS light continuous flash forever with the CEL light remaining lighted (no flashes). Rechecked my amp draw and it's at 9.1ma and dropping ever so slightly (about .01ma/10 seconds). I did run the motor for about 10 minutes so battery got a slight charge. Would the increased voltage in the battery increase my amp draw? Didn't try to pull any fuses at the time since I'm getting frustrated and hungry. Searched, but couldn't find any rhyme or reason for the SRS light to be flashing continuously with SCS connector jumpered.

The saga continues....

 

Chelma, please put "1995 Honda Accord LX" in your signature. It will help everyone to not have to go back to the first page in a thread to see what kind of car you're talking about.Maybe I'm misunderstanding. Are you getting an initial 15mA drain dropping to a 5.5mA drain measured from the battery post to the disconnected battery terminal? With all the fuses in? If so then I suspect that's perfectly normal. The clock and ECU have memories that use a few milliamps current each. That tiny current draw - 5.5mA - won't drain a battery overnight. It won't drain a healthy, fully charged battery in six months. I think you mentioned earlier that you have a new battery. If that's all the current draw you have and the fully charged battery drops to less than 12v overnight then it's a good bet that your new battery is bad.Code 5-1 is listed in the factory service manual as Internal Failure of SRS unit. If you've properly cleared the code using the SRS connector and it comes back and flashes the same code when the SCS connector is jumped then in all likelihood the SRS module is bad. Good used SRS modules are cheap and plentiful if you have a coupe or sedan.

I doubt that the SRS and dead battery problems are related.

 

I realize that car batteries aren't rated in amp/hours but I suspect that a fully charged Accord battery will probably yield 40 - 50 amp/hours if pressed to do so.

 

If the SRS module is actually bad, you should check your booklets for the car. Back in 1995 I think Honda warranty for the SRS system was for the "lifetime of the car". At any rate, it's worth a phone call to ask the dealer whether that's true.

 

Will do.

Yes, yes, and yes! But now it's more like ~9.XmA instead of the 5.5mA from yesterday, but still continuing to drop very slowly.

I properly cleared the 5-1 code by (I'm assuming) clearing my SRS light being on all the time. However, now when I jumper the SCS connector the SRS light continuously flashes short...flashes! I read a few threads on different forums about this occurrence with no resolution it seems.

So by the sounds of things I've happened to buy a bad battery that coincidentally is recreating the exact same symptoms as the battery before hand?! I will take it in this Saturday and see what the fellas at Oreilly's have to say. I'm sure I'll be walking out of there with a new one.

Worth a shot. I'll look into this one! Thanks Jim.

More to follow.

 

Easy to check. My car's battery measures 12.85v after sitting overnight. Measure your battery's voltage tonight. Take off the negative lead. Measure the battery's voltage in the morning. If it's about the same (+/- 0.25v) then it's likely that something is draining it when it's hooked up. If it's much lower (≥1v drop) then the battery is bad/won't hold a charge.

 

Well, I've actually done this...to a point. I jumped my car a few days back and let it run and charge the battery up to about 12.5v. Shut the car off and took off the negative cable and let it sit overnight.

The voltage did start to drop slightly and by morning it was settled at about 10.XX volts. It didn't appear it was continuing to drop so I suspected, with the direction from JimBlake I believe, that it was a "surface" charge voltage due to just charging it up a bit that had bled off and was not significant.

Hope that makes sense. I'm gonna take it in one of these days soon and have it tested and charged. Working on Saturday so might have to wait til Sunday. We'll see.

 

Yeah, but dropping down to 10.x was too much of a drop. And when you hooked it back up to the car, it dropped quickly down to 3.x volts. Those 2 things are NOT consistant with losing the surface-charge. Tex & I said that after we knew what the voltages were.

 

Aww...so that ~2 volts wasn't just a surface-charge? It would indicate something might be wrong with the battery I take it. Gotcha. Might just take it in tomorrow and get this whole thing dealt with. Thanks again.