Hey Guys,

I'm looking for some advice. I "accidently" sold my previous car (long story) and needed a quick replacement, a temporary replacement. I found this 98 Accord EX with 167,000 miles on it. The clearcoat is peeling off the top, the tires were bad, the alignment was off, the brakes were worn, and the check engine light was on. The seller told me the MIL was on because of the a bad EGR valve, and he replaced the valve and told me it was fixed. The only reasonI took a risk with this car is because the previous owner replaced the transmission, and it is still under warranty. So, I got a good deal on the car, and I bought it. On my way home, the check engine light came back on - asI expected.

I've since gotten new tires, an alignment, put on new brake pads, thoroughly cleaned it up (interior is in incredibly good shape), put in a new head unit and speakers, and have done some basic maintenance.

Now I am back to the check engine light issue. Since I've owned the car (2 weeks), I have gotten the following codes:

P0401 - EGR Recirculation flow insufficient detected
P0505 - Idle Control System Malfunction
P1457 - Evap Control system leak detected (canister)
P0420 - Catalyst system efficiency below threshold

After clearing the codes once, only the EGR code and Evap control system leak codes have come back. It is possible the IAC code was caused by low coolant, but the P0420 code worries me because it is generally a bad catalytic converter, but the code has not showed itself again.

I really want to get rid of the check engine light for my sake, the car's sake, and because I do not want to sell a car with a check engine light on. Out of prinicple and financial reasons though, it doesn't make sense to throw unlimited amounts of cash at this vehicle. So I am asking for advice.

I don't want to fix anything, such as getting the EGR ports cleaned and replacing the EVAP canister control shut valve, only to have the check engine light come back on telling me I need a new Catalytic converter, a new IAC valve, or something else.

I just can't justify all of these things, but I can justify some of them - if it will keep the check engine light OFF.

As a temporary car, the return on my investment to get this light off is questionable. So, assuming I am going to have the work done at the dealer or a great independent mechanic, what do you guys think?

What should I fix? Should I fix anything? Fix nothing? Should I have the car diagnosed by a mechanic or dealer? Is it worth it?

 

IMO, look through the EGR port DIY and if you can, do it yourself; otherwise, have it done. Then reset the ECU and see what reappears. I may be wrong, but I can see EGR messing with the cat codes since it changes the exhaust flow.