hello I diagnosed my fuel gauge sender to be bad my low fuel light does not come on. tried to change it but the 8 screws are rusted on there solid and its not worth all the trouble to go thru that and possibly damage the tank. my question is If I jump the fuel gauge wire into the low fuel wire (lt.green/red) will it read when there is low fuel and turn the light on? any input would be appreciated thanks guys.

 

No, it won't work like that. The low fuel level light is basically an on off type of set up,that has power there, until the level drops enough to make the switch and turn the light on. The fuel gauge part runs on ohms (0-90), and has no power to it. If you want to turn the light off, just disconnect the wire and tape the end off.

 

ty for the response that was exactly what I wanted to know. no the light does not come on im trying to get it to work lol. its my fuel sender but I cant get my tank open easily and im not gonna go thru hell for a low fuel light. hey if I tap a temp gauge sender into my radiator hose and ran it to my temp gauge you think that would work?

 

not to confuse you its 2 different problems I have. I have a thread about the temp gauge problem I have if you are interested in breezing thru it and giving your input on it I would appreciate your time. thanks bro

 

Yes, I saw that thread as well. Temp gauge and the ECT are 2 separate things, and operate differently and independently of each other. The ECT is mainly a sensor for fine tuning of the fuel injection.
The temp gauge is mainly for the driver for a warning as to when it goes from "normal" to either too hot (like a stuck closed T-stat) or too cold (stuck open T-stat), or for that matter a complete loss of coolant. Short of fully testing the wiring from the gauge cluster to the sender, I really don't know what to do, other than maybe add another sensor and a gauge for it. I'm not sure if the wiring actually goes thru the ECU or not, as some cars do, and some don't. In the old days, guys would pull a plug out of the cylinder head and put a mechanical sensor in place so they could get an actual reading, versus depending on an idiot light. Now companies are offering electric temp gauge set ups (mostly for Hot Rodders) to do that. Summit Racing even offers a metal splice for your hose that has a bung in it for a temp sensor, in case you don't have a port in the radiator or cylinder head.
Personally I'd test it according to the FSM, and see if your results equal that of the FSM. Then I'd ohm meter the wiring from the gauge cluster plug in connector to the sender, and see if I had an open (break) in the wiring. After that (if everything is OK, I'd probably replace the sender. If I still had an issue, then I'd look into getting another gauge cluster (thinking I had a bad gauge). Basically verifying the wiring as good first, then a good sensor followed by a good gauge. Most of them have a very small electric motor inside that might have died.

 

I don't blame you. I had to replace the fuel tank on my 99 Accord (same gen), and it was a full 2 day job. In my case the tank rusted out thru the seam joint in a few spots, so I re-used the old sending unit and pump, along with the low fuel level switch. Since you have the V6, it has 6 bolts that hold the rear sub frame (cradle) to the car (surrounds the tank), so you have to remove them, along with the lower strut bolts, and the e-brake cables and calipers. If I remember right, you'll have 14 bolts to remove to drop the rear cradle out from under the car. The trick to it all however is to remove the fuel lines at the sending unit, rather than were the plastic tubing joins into the steel lines (as they like to rust there). You can either do that thru the trap door in the trunk, or as you're lowering the rear cradle down. I don't blame you for not wanting to drop the tank/cradle to just remove the small rusted in place screws.