hello i’m having long startup problems i replaced alternator, distributor, spark plugs, ignition wires,
but still have check engine p1381. before distributor install car wouldn’t start. after install it would take 2-3 try’s to stay idle, before alternator replacement car died on me while i was driving. after alternator replacement car hasn’t died on me yet after startup but still very rough first start to the point where i have to crank the key longer and even press on the accelerator to get it to stay idle. i’m having bucking and delayed acceleration at lower rpm’s but seems to be running fine at higher rpms speedometer does not work after replacing transmission and speed sensor.

 

Thank you for adding a video with this as it helps troubleshooting. I've experienced similar issues before with it being different things. There's something I'd go straight for the kill on with this being a 1996. Some info first: 1994-1995 were OBD1 models and their version of a "crankshaft position sensor" essentially was inside of the distributor. 1996-1997 american market Accords are OBD2. 1996-1997 in other countries can be a weird hybrid mix of the two. Assuming yours is an american market OBD2 model instead of OBD1 models having the sensor in the distributor it has a crank shaft position sensor on the front of the engine behind the lower timing cover on the front of the oil pump. When one was going out on our 2000 Civic (Same sensor design, same location, different application) We experience these same issues. After taking the timing cover off it was apparent that the front seals (Crankshaft and camshaft oil seals) were leaking and the oil had saturated the Crank sensor breaking down the insulation on the wiring, dirtying the magnet face, and contaminating the sensor. Replacing the sensor with a cheapo unit did the trick. After we verified that was what it was I changed the oil seals out. Now assuming this is the 2.2 or 2.3L 4 Cylinder and not the V6, on the Accords they have a cam and crankshaft oil seal like the Civics but have an extra o ring oil type seal that is on the face of the oil pump where one of the balancer shafts are on the firewall side and a oil seal for the other balancer shaft toward the front of the car. These are all potential oil leakage spots that could kill that sensor with age. If you look at the bottom of the engine where all your belts ride on the crank pulley and there's what looks like an oil drip or it's oily down there I'd say it's definitely the crankshaft position sensor.

The sensor it'sself can be obtained here for various brands and prices (cheap ones work perfectly fine. I've never had an issue): https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...on+sensor,7196

Something else to check before you dig into the timing of the engine. Pull your computer out and open it up. Smell it for any messed up smells and look closely at the capacitors on the board for any leakage or bulging. If there's an issue in there don't hesitate to reach out to me as I have no issue making videos or answering questions.

I'll add pictures and documentation shortly.
The sensor assembly is on the front of the oil pump held on by 10mm bolts pictured below. Referencing page 6-55 in the Newer Accord Manual I DM'd you.


Also check to see if this kit has been installed if you go behind your timing cover:

Make sure to read the comments on that video. I explain some shortcuts you can take that may benefit you, the car, and your wallet.

On the lesser simple things to check side of things:
Did you have your battery checked out?
Have you checked on your spark plugs and sparkplug wires?
Have you checked your battery's main ground cable for severe corrosion or breakage?
Have you cleaned your battery posts and clamps recently?
Does your under hood passenger side fuse box smell mildly of burning and peanut butter? (I know this is a weird one but I just went though that one)

Also here's my engine with all the timing equipment off to show a more realistic example of where the seals are since manuals only show so much. There's also RTV that goes around the surface between the oil pump and the engine block as well as an oring that goes in the back of the oil pump and meets the engine block. Those wont collect oil where the crank sensor if they leak. If those let loose you will notice an absence of oil pressure.


My model is OBD1 so it doesn't have a crank sensor on the oil pump. Yours will have them bolted on where the red dots are.

 

Why wouldn’t it show a DTC for crankshaft position sensor? Not arguing, just curious.

 

This is a very good question and I have no idea why it doesn't throw a code. When I had the crank position sensor going out on the OBD2b 2000 Civic it acted just like this as well and didn't throw a code for it either. Maybe it's like technically making a wire to wire connection through the harness so the ecu "sees" it but then the actual "magnet" connection part of it internally degrades taking it out of the loop maybe. I've never cut one of these sensors open with a dremel to see how they are constructed before. Maybe I'll do that one day. Below are some pics of the bad sensor I encountered that didn't throw a code.

 

sounds like the problem might be with the timing or the fuel system. you should check for any fuel leaks and see if the fuel filter is cloged. Also, the P1381 code could mean issues with the crank sensor or timing belt