Also, did you check your #9 fuse to see if it was blown drverside dash box

 

ok cool just did that I got 5 volts from the red/white wire at the sensor

 

Ok, we know you are good all the way to the PCM.

Now you have to troubleshoot the cable going from the PCM to gauge. Have you checked the #9 fuse under the dash on the driver side?

 

#9 fuse is good cluster lights are on and working. ok that's good news. so out of the pcm I believe the wire I am looking for is a1 (yellow/green) going to temp gauge at c2 (yellow/green) at cluster. I put a multimeter on that wire and when my car is running I am getting 12 volts out of it and if I put my test light to ground when car is running and touch wire it goes all the way to h. I even tried hooking up the ect wire going in pcm at c26 to this wire and ill get the gauge to work and I get an accurate reading from it, only prob is my car does not seem to like that and she idles real high (between 1500 and 2000 rpm) and u can see when u rev it she comes down all speratic and u can tell its not right. ill also get a hard start from the car the first start of the day with it hooked up like that. so I don't think that's right. please advise any input from anyone is apprecatied. thank you SEAN JORDAN and NEW CIVIC for your help so far. lets get her working!!!

 

The sensor I had you test was that replaced? Had you done a coolant change prior

 

yes changed coolant and replaced sensor that was the first thing I did thinking it wouldn't hurt my pocket or the car to start fresh with both of them. my check engine light is gone now that I disconnected the ect wire from the gauge wire and shes driving great. I am starting to think maybe it is my pcm that is bad? if the signal comes out of the pcm on this car then there would be no other wire to trace. I hooked up from gauge to a1 atm pcm (temp gauge) and get nothing. I cant explain it. was hoping someone ran into this prob and had an idea but I cant seem to figure it out. it needs to get the reading from the ect right?(the 5 volts that come down when engine gets hot) if I just hook up 12 volts to that wire its not going to solve my issue right

if I tie the ect wire into the gauge wire I do get an accurate reading, but it makes my car idle high and act up and I get a cel 86 so that's deff not the solution. im running out of ideas.....

 

everything helps/I actually found the diagram I was looking for but still no temp gauge no matter what I do. im starting to think it could be a bad pcm because if the temp gauge wire comes out of the pcm to the gauge at a1 then there wpuld be no wire to trace back/ the signal should be coming from the pcm and it is not. I even tried running a new wire from the pcm to the gauge and still nothing. I know for a fact my ect wire going in the pcm at c26 is deff working after running tests so the 5 volt signal is deff getting to the pcm but it gets lost there. I got nothing coming out. anyone with ideas input/

i tryed hooking ect wire into gauge wire at a1 she runs ruff with a high idle and throws a cel code 86 (ect circuit)
i tryed bypassing the pcm and ran my own wire and hooked ect to gauge and same ruff high idle with code
i tryed hooking up new wire to a1 to gauge and i get nothing
but when i put a test light to ground and touch a1 gauge wire needle jumps to hot
have .5 volts out of gauge wire (tells me ground is hooked up)

any input or ideas would be great;y appreciated thanks guys

 

That what I'm thinking it is also, PCM.

 

obviously no way to hook into the ect then. I mean I can and my gauge will work but my car runs like crap why would I do that lol. I guess that's why it is ran on a different wire to begin with lol. thanks for the help though SEAN JORADAN means a lot to me. now on to installing the windshield washer pump so I can get some damn fluid on my windshield lol

 

hey SEAN JORDAN can I just tap another ect sensor into my radiator hose and run the wire to my gauge and that should work??