DIY powder coating
#31
11-12-2008, 01:50 PM
RE: DIY powder coating
I've been contacted by the powder-coat place that our pieces can be picked up later this afternoon (just as I thought last week).
The back edge of the transmission case (the piece with the "nose" on it) fits inside the motor case behind it, as shown in the blow-up diagram below:
I would estimate that the overlap is only a little over 1/8". The two edges mate perfectly and, when seen from the outside, there is no gap visible between the two pieces. Again, they butt up against each other perfectly.
The reason I'm posting is that I need to put some kind of sealer on the mating edges. This is supposed to prevent any possible leakage of oil or grease from the transmission into food that is being mixed in the bowl. Good idea, IMO. I'm thinking that an automotive gasket sealer, or form-a-gasket should do the trick. But whatever I use cannot be permanent. I must be able to "break" the seal whenever I want to do maintenace - as I did on this situation.
(Screws that first pass through interior, unthreaded holes in the motor housing, enter threaded holes in the transmission case. When tightened, the screws pull the motor housing and transmission case together, locking the transmission case securely against the motor housing. Therefore, the sealer does not serve to "adhere" the two pieces together. It's sole function is to prevent leakage.)
With that in mind, would someone be kind enough to make a recommendation for a sealer or form-a-gasket liquid to prevent leakage from these two metal pieces?
Thanks.
The back edge of the transmission case (the piece with the "nose" on it) fits inside the motor case behind it, as shown in the blow-up diagram below:
I would estimate that the overlap is only a little over 1/8". The two edges mate perfectly and, when seen from the outside, there is no gap visible between the two pieces. Again, they butt up against each other perfectly.
The reason I'm posting is that I need to put some kind of sealer on the mating edges. This is supposed to prevent any possible leakage of oil or grease from the transmission into food that is being mixed in the bowl. Good idea, IMO. I'm thinking that an automotive gasket sealer, or form-a-gasket should do the trick. But whatever I use cannot be permanent. I must be able to "break" the seal whenever I want to do maintenace - as I did on this situation.
(Screws that first pass through interior, unthreaded holes in the motor housing, enter threaded holes in the transmission case. When tightened, the screws pull the motor housing and transmission case together, locking the transmission case securely against the motor housing. Therefore, the sealer does not serve to "adhere" the two pieces together. It's sole function is to prevent leakage.)
With that in mind, would someone be kind enough to make a recommendation for a sealer or form-a-gasket liquid to prevent leakage from these two metal pieces?
Thanks.
#36
11-12-2008, 04:10 PM
RE: DIY powder coating
Aaron, I told you that in confidence! I'm going through a few rough patches in life right now. Sleeping on the cot is nice and toasty, considering I'm inside of a server, but holy cow, it's filled to the brim with " in there!
#40
11-22-2008, 02:07 PM
RE: DIY powder coating
After re-assembling our now-beautiful mixer, I stupidly allowed the motor to run an excessive amount of time which damaged the starter windings on the motor. It was all my fault and my ignorance of electric motors turned out to be very far from bliss.
Luckily, I was able to find a motor re-winding shop that was kind enough to give me some free advice and a small amount of supplies. They would have done the re-wind for $360, but they suggested that I could do the job myself for no cost, if I was motivated. (That last part was all it took.)
I tested the run windings after the start winding burned and, thankfully, they were undamaged. (The motor still ran fine if I reved up the motor a bit using a drill and then turned on the power.) Here's a photo of the burned windings after I removed the stakes and separated the pole on the left from the run winding:
To make a long story somewhat shorter, I am now pretty proficient on the proper centrifugal switch calibration of 115V, single-phase, 4-pole, ac motors that have centrifugal switches.
I personally re-wound the start-windings on the motor. It took me about 6 hours of fairly tedious, but not difficult, finger-labor and painstaking counting. I am now pretty proficient in that regard, too.
After the rewind, I tested the circuits, crossed my fingers, installed the stator and rotor and ran the mixer. It started and ran great, but I still had to calibrate the centrifugal switch. It is now properly calibrated and turns the start circuit off about 1/10 of a second after the power switch is turned on. The start windings don't even get warm, which is as it should be.
Anyway, now that I realize how a small, stupid error can cause many hours of aggravation, I'd like to install either an small circuit-breaker or in-line fuse where the power cord enters the mixer at the bottom of the pedestal.
The plate you see at the lower part of the photo is a cover that is held in place by the four bolts that secure the pedestal to the bottom pan of the mixer. This would be the ideal place to install a small circuit breaker, IMO.
According to the switchplate, the mixer's 1/6 hp motor draws 2.85 amps at continuous, no-load operation at 1725 rpm.
I know that when the power switch is turned on, with both the start and run windings drawing power, the power draw is much greater than 2.85 amps. But, again, the start circuit is only engaged for a fairly small fraction of a second.
I know that circuit breakers and, to a lesser degree, in-line fuses take a certain length of time to break a circuit and that the closer the actual amperage is to the rated amperage of the fuse/breaker, the longer it takes for the device to break the circuit.
The question that I put to the forum is: what size fuse or circuit breaker is proper for this machine - 3 amp, 5 amp, etc.?
(BTW, nice color, eh? My wife and I watched the entire powder-coat process. Fantastic procedure and results. I'll post some photos of the mixer after I get it re-assembled. Right now the stator is at the re-wind shop to be dipped in varnish and baked. I should have it either Monday or Tuesday, and the machine will be reassembled very shortly thereafter.)
Luckily, I was able to find a motor re-winding shop that was kind enough to give me some free advice and a small amount of supplies. They would have done the re-wind for $360, but they suggested that I could do the job myself for no cost, if I was motivated. (That last part was all it took.)
I tested the run windings after the start winding burned and, thankfully, they were undamaged. (The motor still ran fine if I reved up the motor a bit using a drill and then turned on the power.) Here's a photo of the burned windings after I removed the stakes and separated the pole on the left from the run winding:
To make a long story somewhat shorter, I am now pretty proficient on the proper centrifugal switch calibration of 115V, single-phase, 4-pole, ac motors that have centrifugal switches.
I personally re-wound the start-windings on the motor. It took me about 6 hours of fairly tedious, but not difficult, finger-labor and painstaking counting. I am now pretty proficient in that regard, too.
After the rewind, I tested the circuits, crossed my fingers, installed the stator and rotor and ran the mixer. It started and ran great, but I still had to calibrate the centrifugal switch. It is now properly calibrated and turns the start circuit off about 1/10 of a second after the power switch is turned on. The start windings don't even get warm, which is as it should be.
Anyway, now that I realize how a small, stupid error can cause many hours of aggravation, I'd like to install either an small circuit-breaker or in-line fuse where the power cord enters the mixer at the bottom of the pedestal.
The plate you see at the lower part of the photo is a cover that is held in place by the four bolts that secure the pedestal to the bottom pan of the mixer. This would be the ideal place to install a small circuit breaker, IMO.
According to the switchplate, the mixer's 1/6 hp motor draws 2.85 amps at continuous, no-load operation at 1725 rpm.
I know that when the power switch is turned on, with both the start and run windings drawing power, the power draw is much greater than 2.85 amps. But, again, the start circuit is only engaged for a fairly small fraction of a second.
I know that circuit breakers and, to a lesser degree, in-line fuses take a certain length of time to break a circuit and that the closer the actual amperage is to the rated amperage of the fuse/breaker, the longer it takes for the device to break the circuit.
The question that I put to the forum is: what size fuse or circuit breaker is proper for this machine - 3 amp, 5 amp, etc.?
(BTW, nice color, eh? My wife and I watched the entire powder-coat process. Fantastic procedure and results. I'll post some photos of the mixer after I get it re-assembled. Right now the stator is at the re-wind shop to be dipped in varnish and baked. I should have it either Monday or Tuesday, and the machine will be reassembled very shortly thereafter.)