A friend had that bar in the poluished finish ... it's a nice bar.

 

Not meaning to be picky, but the affect is opposite to your description. The ARB (anti-roll bar / sway bar / anti-sway bar...) increases 'lift' affect at the inside wheel, not "tries to push that inside tire back down when the outside tire goes down" (whatever this statement means, as it seems a bit self contradictory).

Assuminglateral acceleration, and thus total lateral weight transfer remains the same (i.e. the sum of front + rearweight transfer remains constant), if the stiffness of a singleARB is increased then the amount of lateral weight transfer will be increased at the end of the car at which ARB stiffness has been increased, and weight transfer at the other end will beequally reduced.

Assuming no change in lateral'G' force, the sum total of lateral weight transfer (front + rear) will remain the same, but the distribution of that transfer (front vs rear) will change. This is why (e.g.) increasing the front ARB stiffness tends to increase understeer, i.e. more weight transfers from the IF to the OF, but also equally less weight transfers from the IR to the OR.

This moves the grip balance toward the rear, i.e. more equally distributed rear weight, and less equally distibuted front weight, which in effect equates to more 'rubber on the road' at the rear than the front, thus more understeer / less oversteer (with an increase in front roll stiffness).Of course the opposite affect will occur with a rear ARB stiffness increase (or reduction in front ARB stiffness)

If front and rear ARB stiffnesswere increased equally then the grip balance would remain the same and theundersteer / oversteer balance would be unchanged. What would change is the degree of roll (lessened) and the the general steering and handling responsiveness (increased). In this case there would be no change in the 'lifting' affect at either of the inside wheels, the degree of weight transfer would remain the same (assuming no increase in 'G' force, which will probably change), though the speed at which the weight transfer occurred would be faster (hence more responsive handling characteristics).

 

The tower brace's 'bar' being tubular isn't really an issue as long as the tube OD and wall thickness is great enough for the bar to be adequately rigid in compression (i.e. a strong compressive force doesn't cause the bar to 'bow' under load).

For tower braces where the bar is not bent in any way a tubular bar is usually adequate, but as soon as a bend is placed in the bar it becomes much weakened in both compression and tension, so solid would be better as would much larger external dimensions. Note also that bars that have a flattened bar section / shape tend to beweaker in compression (and tension if a bent bar).

Agreed, but more important even than nice welds etcis that the attachment brackets aresubstantially rigid. If the metal from which the brackets are made is too thin or the bracket not well braced within it's design (providing a rigid load path from the ends of the brace bar to the tops of the 'strut' tower), then the brace is weak regardless of how rigid the bar itself may be. I would suggest that the bracket material should be at least 4mm - 5mm thick, and braced from the top of the bracket as directly as possible to as much as possible of the 'strut' tower top.

 

so about the sway bars which do u guys prefer?TANABE orST SUSPENSIONS?

 

I loved my Comptechs. Progress also makes an excellent product. I think that Tanabe and ST are the same company, but I might be wrong. I know that they make good strut bars, but I don't have any experiance with their sways.

 

Thats kool but i think tanabe andST are the only suspension brand who make parts/ sway bars for 97 accords that I know of!

 

http://progressauto.com/store/produc...roducts_id=407

Spoonfeeding at it's best! Next time look it up.

 

kool! thanks! I'll try to find pics for that and see how it performs! I saw the ST installed on a 97 accord in the project car mag and since my cars green it would look nice! But then again i saw the tanabe's install on a 94 accord on project low key in modified mag and that looked kool as well! So i'm just debating on what is better!

 

You plan to buy a sway bar based on it's color? Good luck man...

 

I bought front and rear strut bars, so far Ive installed the front and am working on the back, which are a bit tricky to get to. Got em from ebay, but I was very selective about them. The bars are made out of aluminum, the mounting pieces are made out of steel, the bar is thick, and I did notice a difference while driving, steering has become more responsive. Cost 45 bucks (shipping included) for both the front and rear, so yea Id say go for the ebay ones, just be on the lookout for ones that are thin because they will likely bow under high stress.